The Asian Beauty Secrets book is a complete skincare course covering basic to advanced skincare routines, by accredited Singapore dermatologist and international beauty KOL Dr. Teo Wan Lin. As a leading voice on Asian beauty, she has been featured in beauty publications worldwide, including Cosmetics Design Asia and Be-story, Japan‘s top beauty magazine by publishing giant Kobunsha.
She is also the chief scientific officer of Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals, a botanical skincare line focussing on ethnobotany, with its manufacturing and research headquarters as one of the leading biotechnology firms in South Korea, the hub of Asian beauty. Her podcast Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty is the premier beauty podcast in Asia with a focus on the brain-skin connection that has collaborated with beauty giants like L’Oréal, Eucerin, AMORE Pacific and Skinceuticals to bring skincare education to the masses.
This book takes you from beginner to advanced level in the art of skincare routines, with a complete dictionary of plant powered active ingredients. This latest edit of the most comprehensive Asian skincare bible written by a board certified dermatologist includes a bonus chapter on the Asian beauty perspective of skin cycling, without acid peels or retinols, but with plant actives like bakuchiol, papain, bromelain and rare medicinal herbs.
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Includes never-before published office tips for her patients seeking to improve or maintain beautiful, clear skin. Complete with easy to follow flowchart forms that allow you customise the perfect beauty regimen according to your age, lifestyle and time schedule. Learn how to skin cycle without retinoids, retinols or acids, but with whole plant actives designed for universal tolerability.
Asian beauty secrets #1: What is skin cycling?
Beauty enthusiasts are likely to agree that the most noteworthy skincare trend on social media in 2022 is/was skin cycling. Skin cycling becoming a trending term on TikTok took many dermatologists by surprise, after all this was nothing new! A term coined for a practice long advocated by dermatologists to reduce skin irritation and increase tolerability. The practice isn’t new but the attention accorded to it is helpful to educate on the value of universal tolerability – a concept right at the heart of Asian beauty skincare products.
Personally, I find the popularity of this cutesy term as the best opportunity to share about the wonders of plant actives for skin ecology.
But first, a little bit about myself and what I do. Many of you may already know me as a dermatologist and the host of a beauty podcast Dermatologist Talks: Science of Beauty. Where I share about the Brain-Skin connection with particular relevance to neuroaesthetics. I am also the head of cosmeceutical research at Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals. We have headquarters in Korea and Singapore. This gives me unique insight into both the research and clinical aspects of cosmeceuticals tailored specifically for Asian skin types. I am also the author of the first white paper on the maskne microbiome. My paper characterizes essential aspects of the skin microenvironment, published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. So with this, you can expect the podcast to showcase the best of microbiome research and plant-based alternatives to traditional cosmeceuticals.
@drteowanlin Hack (Heck ?) Skin Cycling with this method •Dermatologist Skincare Secrets• #skincycling #skincyclingroutine #skincyclingresults #skincare101 #skintok #dermatologydoctor #dermatologist #learnontiktok #learningisfun #fyp #foryou #fypシ #skincareroutine #retinolskincare #skincycling #skincyclingroutine #skincyclingresults #asianbeautysecrets #plantbasedtiktok #plantbasedskincare #plantbasedskincareproducts ♬ Ballet song like “Waltz of flowers” _3 minutes(965255) – yulu-ism project
Asian beauty secrets #2: Tolerability
As we mentioned earlier, the concept of universal tolerability is overlooked and understated by the beauty industry. The best interpretation of this term is this- the best beauty products especially those recommended by dermatologists can be safely and effectively introduced into anyone’s skincare regimen- without the need for skin cycling or medical supervision. Are you surprised? Well, don’t be. Cosmetic companies may not want you to know this. This is after all the main driving principle behind the plethora of skincare products they want you to buy. Different products for different skin types at different stages. That may well be beauty’s biggest lie. Ask a dermatologist and we are likely to tell you the truth.
The best cleanser for sensitive skin is likely one that will work well on acne and other troubled skin types too. That’s not to say that a cleanser will cure acne or rosacea or whatever skin condition you may be suffering. But it is suitable as an adjunct skincare regimen that will help normalise your skin while you are undergoing medical treatment. Yup, most dermatological conditions do not resolve on their own nor with skincare. That’s why when you visit a dermatologist, they prescribe you with medications and not just skincare.
Topical steroids, oral antibiotics are part of our armamentarium in dermatology therapy. However, this is not to say that they are without adverse effects. Do they work? Yes, most of the time. Are there adverse effects? Yes, that is why you have to use them under medical supervision. So here is the juicy bit. This podcast isn’t about me preaching the benefits of western pharmacology, which is the bulk of my medical training. However, it’s going to be providing the unique perspective of a board certified dermatologist assessing the merits of eastern ethnobotany in the light of modern day scientific research. And just let me tease you a little bit – many of these Asian beauty formulas actually work.
Asian beauty secrets #3: Ethnobotany
What is fascinating is that modern scientific studies and the latest understanding of common dermatological conditions shed light on the prowess of ancient herbs. Ethnobotany, a long practised tradition, showcases the potential of plant-based skincare actives for acne, rosacea, eczema and combating ageing. I will cover emerging concepts like inflammaging, the exposome and the skin microbiome are effectively addressed by potent plant actives. I will also be covering customised skincare, the burgeoning beauty segment that promises to revolutionise effective skincare regimens.
You may wonder how Asian skin differs from Caucasian skin for example. First, Asian skin falls under skin of color, which means it is more prone to hyperpigmentation and inflammation. Traditionally used cosmeceuticals such as retinols and retinoids, plus acids, work by stimulating collagen production and regulating pigment production. However these also evoke an inflammatory reaction in skin. What presents as mere irritation or redness in Caucasian skin can manifest quite differently in skin of color. Skin of color can develop more inflammation and this also leads to paradoxical hyperpigmentation.
What isn’t helpful also is that Singapore has a tropical climate. This means we get 100% of the sun’s UV rays year round. Retinols and acids cause photosensitivity. Sunsensivity manifests as redness, swelling, flaking of the skin, what goes on under the surface of skin isn’t pretty either. In fact, this vicious cycle of inflammation triggers off a cascade of bad chemical mediators. These drive up the rate of skin cancer formation in one’s lifetime. This is why dermatologists advocate using sunscreen and sun avoidance measures while on retinols/retinoids and acids.
Plant-based actives
My emphasis has always been on plant-based actives because of increased tolerability for Asian skin types. My dermatology practice in Singapore comprises a subset of patients prone to sensitive skin conditions like acne, rosacea, eczema and other dermatological concerns. I treat both skin of colour and Caucasian patients for photo-ageing concerns. I am well versed clinically in the complications arising from traditional retinol/retinoid and chemical peel use. Particularly because of the tendency for skin of color to develop hyperpigmentation and also Singapore’s year-round high UV levels.
@drteowanlin Here’s the skincare guide to read before 2023 Why You Will Love This: – Comprehensive Asian skincare bible on regimens & actives – Asian beauty’s gut-skin microbiome approach – Written by board certified dermatologist & expert on beauty formulations – Scientific approach to the ancient art of ethnobotany – Harness plant intelligence to create the ideal skincare regimen – Dictionary of Asian beauty plant actives categorised by plant parts – Discover nature’s own plant-based skin cycling formulas Asian Beauty Secrets: Hello to Plant-Powered Skin Cycling Say bye to DIY Skin-Cycling. Here’s how. With skin cycling all the rage on TikTok, we reveal how hidden intelligence of plant extracts facilitates natural skin cycling. In fact, the better way is to identify whole plant actives, nature’s ready made skincare actives, that work on multiple cellular pathways to mitigate irritation & are universally tolerable. #dermatologist #beautyhack #skincareguide #skincycling #skincareroutine #skincyclingresults #skincyclingnight2 #dermatologistontiktok #tiktokderm #dermdoctor #drtwl #skincaretips #booktok #booktoker ♬ Ballet song like “Waltz of flowers” _3 minutes(965255) – yulu-ism project
My preparation of the manuscript of the book Asian Beauty Secrets has been ongoing for the last 2 years. This is a sequel to the original skincare bible. The development of our conscious pharmacy arm meant that we streamlined our research and development to pure plant-based actives for our cosmeceutical arm. As my clinical practice converted to pure teledermatology during the COVID-19 period, our pharmacy’s custom-compounding service experienced the highest demand on record, with patients transitioning to at-home regimens as opposed to in-clinic procedures. We translated our insider expertise in K-beauty routines to home regimens. This provided our clientele with the active solutions required for their home treatments.
At the heart of Asian beauty is its roots in ethnobotany. Almost serendipitously so as well because these plant extracts seem to be God’s gift to Asian skin types that are in a sense more sensitive to traditional cosmeceuticals like retinols. With added anti-inflammatory and barrier repair benefits- that are not just applicable to asian skin types either but for all skin types. The first part of this book is dedicated to the art and science of Asian beauty routines. The second part is a near complete dictionary of plant actives used in Asian beauty products. In this podcast, I will share about the practical tips gleaned from Asian beauty skincare regimens. Sharing them with you so that you can apply them in your daily beauty routine.
Plant-based retinol alternatives
Back to skin cycling. Honestly, the international community of dermatologists can vouch for how we’ve all been ‘skin cycling’ since the advent of retinols. How skin cycling started trending on social media shows there is a huge consumer appetite for these cute but otherwise meaningless terms. In my personal opinion, retinols are passé. Plant based retinol alternatives are far better because of the minimal/zero irritation potential, safety in pregnancy/lactating states and also added anti-inflammatory benefits. This addresses inflammaging, the latest concept in the skin exposome. I attended the Dior Scientific Press Conference recently. Here, the LVMH research institute shared about rosapeptide, the patented extract with at least double the potency of retinol- plus additional anti-inflammatory benefits.
Retinol side effects
@drteowanlin •Skip Skin Cycling in 2023• Bakuchiol over Retinol? What do you think? #skincycling #skincyclingresults #bakuchiolserum #bakuchiol #bakuchiolskincare #dermatologist #dermatologistontiktok #tiktokdermatologist #sgtiktok #fypシ #fyp #learningisfun #learnontiktok ♬ Ballet song like “Waltz of flowers” _3 minutes(965255) – yulu-ism project
While compiling Asian Beauty Secrets, intended as a compendium of plant-based skincare ingredients, I share about bakuchiol, which has all the exact cellular pathways exerted by retinol on skin- for collagen stimulation and antioxidant properties, without irritation. Switch to plant based retinol alternatives. I personally became intolerant of retinoids/retinols in my thirties. Despite using it for over a decade at the highest concentrations and not having risk factors. Many of my patients also developed irritation out of the blue. This is despite following a tailing down regimen and using with moisturisers. I have stopped routinely prescribing retinoids for antiaging for the last 3 years. Instead, I prescribed a synthetic peptide, which functions as a topical muscle relaxant with a neurotoxin like effect. In 2023, we will be including bakuchiol as the main retinol-alternative in our pharmacy range.
That being said, in this podcast I will share how the hidden intelligence of plant extracts in the field of ethnobotany facilitates a natural skin cycling regimen. In fact, the better way is to identify whole plant actives that are nature’s ready-made skincare active. These are known as an adaptogen, which works on multiple cellular pathways to mitigate irritation and are universally tolerable. The basis of which is are plants found in eastern ethnobotany, from K-beauty and C-beauty.
In the next episodes, get ready to be your own expert facialist and aesthetician. I will teach you top tips on how the original Korean medi-facial experience that promises glass skin works. I’ll spill the beans on the behind the scenes secrets of aesthetic spas and clinics. As well as how you can replicate this at home, at a fraction of the cost. Discover and understand plant-based alternatives to traditionally recommended chemical peel acids, retinols and retinoids from me, Dr.TWL, the K-beauty expert. Build the ideal tailored skincare regimen based on the latest in microbiome research.