2023 Skincare Essentials List: Must-Have Asian Beauty Products
Welcome back to Asian Beauty Secrets- the podcast where you’ll get insider tips on Asian beauty regimens from me Dr.Teo Wan Lin, founder of Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals. Today we’ll be covering some must-haves on my 2023 skincare essentials list.
Beginning with the serum. What exactly is a serum? Well, a serum is essentially a concentrate or an essence that can be water-based or oil based. But in the context of K-beauty, serums are almost always water-based. Facial oils are more of a thing in western formulations— but that’s a topic for another episode. What we are going to focus on today are the elixirs of K-beauty encapsulated in tiny glass dropper bottles. And by tiny— we mean volumes that typically range from 15-30 mls. That, ironically, is also the easiest way for a layperson to identify a serum in the glorious world we must call too-many-skincare-steps.
Anyway, the point here is that serums do have a distinct function. Serums are created to be highly concentrated and facilitate intense delivery of specific active(s). These tend to be most stable in water bases. As a result, it is more efficiently delivered in a serum form rather than diluted in a moisturiser which has an oil-water base. Serums are also regarded as lightweight and readily absorbed into skin. Serums should be applied before any cream or lotion based skincare product.
Best serum active ingredients
Some of my favorite must-have active ingredients in serums are resveratrol. This is a potent antioxidant derived from grapes— which I’m sure if you are a beauty fiend like me, you must already know. But that’s not the point, there is a hidden Asian beauty secret here which I’m about to share. K-beauty formulas use trans-resveratrol instead of resveratrol. You may be wondering what the differences are? Well they are similar in their effect, except that there is possibly a higher bioavailability and absorption with trans resveratrol. In addition, it is extracted from the Japanese knotweed plant. This plant itself is a rich source of polyphenols and skin-loving flavonoids.
Skincare Essentials List #1 : Potent Serums Worth Your Dollar
We’re going to move on to no.2 on the skincare essentials list, and as you may have rightly guessed, that’s your moisturiser. Not just any moisturiser— K-beauty moisturisers are usually formulated as lightweight emulsions rather than creams. Emulsions are also known as lotions which mean that compared to traditional moisturising creams, such formulations contain a lower proportion of grease/oil, compared to the aqueous component— which is how dermatologists describe the proportion of water used in the skincare formula. The key here is to understand that all skincare active ingredients require a solvent. This is so that they can be effectively absorbed. Water is a universal solvent. It is also important that there is a component of oil or grease in order to increase the occlusivity of the product. This will enhance absorption of the active ingredient.
Understanding skincare formulations
I’m going to break down some important terms here. When it comes to understanding skincare formulations, dermatologists are concerned about a few things. Firstly, how effectively the active ingredient is carried in the vehicle. For instance, ceramides, which are fatty lipids that repair the skin barrier, are best incorporated in cream or ointment formulas and not in serums. Hyaluronic acid or polyglutamic acid ought to be dissolved in aqueous solutions. These can be in a more concentrated form, say when delivered in a serum or a facial mist— as opposed to in a more dilute formula in an emulsion.
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The second concern dermatologists have is the cosmetic acceptability of the product. By that we mean whether it feels comfortable on skin or feels oily/sticky. K-beauty products fare excellently in this department— day moisturisers for example are most commonly in an emulsion form. That means they are lightweight enough on skin so it doesn’t end up feeling sticky throughout the day— especially when mixed with sweat, grime and makeup. Yet there is just the right proportion of oil/ceramide component that it reduces water loss to the environment; a phenomenon known as transepidermal water loss. This is especially critical in air conditioned environments and those who live in temperate climates. There is increased transepidermal water loss which is a form of evaporation that further weakens the skin barrier.
Skincare Essentials List #2: Lightweight Hydrating Emulsions Packed With Antioxidants
Dermatologist’s Tips on Choosing the Best Moisturiser for Combination/Oily Skin
Emulsion and lotion— these terms are used interchangeably as they refer to the texture of the product. Let’s recap, a vehicle in the context of skincare formulations refers to the solvent used, in order that active ingredients can be applied and absorbed by skin. Water is a universal solvent, meaning that most actives can be diluted and applied in a liquid form. The science of topical application in dermatology must not be overlooked.
A big no-no when it comes to moisturising skincare is powder. This is probably why you’ve never heard of a moisturising powder. But on a serious note, powders do serve a function— and I’m not talking about dubious baby powder but face powders. You know, the loose powder we use to set our makeup? While it is thought of primarily as serving a cosmetic function i.e. reducing shine on skin etc. If you choose the correct loose powder, it can actually reduce oiliness. Loose powders that contain zinc can regulate oil production — this is helpful for those with combination or oily skin.
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Which brings us to no.3 on our skincare essentials list— powder!
Skincare Essentials List #3: Add a CC Cream and Powder Away
This actually isn’t part of skincare per se. Rather, powders usually fall under the category of makeup. But did you know that K-beauty was the first to create makeup with skincare benefits? That was the first edition of the BB cream, which are beauty balms that correct blemishes. These BB creams contain antioxidants and some level of SPF. Although it must be stressed that bona fide Asian beauty enthusiasts know never to use BB cream as your one and only sunscreen— I mean. Is there such a thing as too much sunscreen? More on that later.
Back to BB creams. After BB creams came the CC creams which stood for color correcting plus the previous benefits attached the BB creams — best of all, with even more skincare goodies. The CellTalk Cosmeceutical CC cream from our pharmacy for instance— boasts an impressive list of 7 clinically active potent antioxidants that ensure your skincare makeup goes a long way!
That about sums up this week’s episode on Little Bird Whispers, Asian Beauty Secrets. I hope you’ve enjoyed my list of skincare essentials for 2023. Do visit our podcast website which is packed with even more asian beauty goodies for our listeners to enjoy! We also have a free, beautiful printable journal with a gorgeous floral theme to help kickstart your 2023 beauty resolutions.
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